I have been having a hell of a time updating the Vintage Patterns Errata page I set up for when I find errors in the vintage patterns I work with. I tried to use what seemed a simple layout in the WordPress Blocks whole thing, and it’s just an absolute trial. I am still working on it, but I am annoyed to have to fight a blog to–in a shocking twist–just look like a fucking blog.
Only way out is through. And spite is a motivator like no other.
This damned waistcoat I’m working on forgot to note how to edge the pocket. Which is not, itself, the problem. But not being able to WARN PEOPLE. That’s what’s getting me the most.
I bought a bunch of yarn, and I know what I’m gonna do with it, so I thought I’d show you! (Hilariously, the answer to all of these is ‘cosplay’, which was unintentional. But WHICH cosplays??? You gotta watch the video for that. We call that a hook.)
I’ve got more hair than they did in the 1940s, apparently. And that’s with most of it shaved clean off. It’s a shame. It’s a very clever pattern, and the hat really is lovely. (You can grab the pattern here. [I do not make any cash if you buy it.])
But sometimes you take a chance, and it doesn’t work. That’s okay. I got to practice short rows (ugh) and the overall build on the hat was interesting and fun.
A few notes to help you out:
You need a #10 crochet thread. You’re gonna double-strand it. You’ll need 575 yards. I used Knitpicks Curio.
The pattern calls for a #1 Steel Crochet Hook. That can either be a 2.25mm or a 2.75mm. I used a 2.75, and it was still too small, but my stitches looked fantastic, so definitely go with that.
There’s a very good spot in the pattern to add more increases. You do a series of them after the short rows. Then, the pattern says to work even for 4 inches. Just add more increases in the early rows of the 4 inches. I don’t think the overall structure of the hat will be impacted by doing that.
There’s milliner wire in the edge of the brim. I used 1.5mm, and it was too thick. I don’t suggest going above 1mm.
I am not the person to tell you how to sew the tuck (you can see my very questionable sewing in the photo). However, if anyone’s got tips, I would happily take them.
Lastly, and hilariously, this is the first vintage pattern I’ve used in awhile that did not have a single errata (Check out the Vintage Pattern Errata Page for ones I’ve tracked down so far). So, well done lovely hat! I will eventually try this one again, but for now, I’m happy to put aside the thread and tackle something else.
That is not clickbait. I got really into the surface crochet part of making this baby blanket and absolutely wrecked my left elbow, bicep, shoulder, and some spot sort of near my shoulder.
This is not my first crochet injury. It’s healing fine. Take breaks. Stretch. Learn from my (painful) mistakes.
But, I mean, look at it!
It’s worked back and forth over a chain stitch with six increases at the top edge every row. I then used surface crochet to add the extra colors in the stripes, the flower stems, and the name. I embroidered the flowers and worked a series of shells over the edge to finish it off. The goal was to create a blanket that looks like a drawing a kid might create.
For further details plus some info on how I goofed up sewing on the back fabric, here’s a video:
After many years of looking at Deja Joy’s Owl Crochet Basket, I finally sat down and made one. It’s not as firm as the ones in the pattern photos because I didn’t do the quadruple yarn strand that was recommended (my fingers would have snapped clean off), but I am very pleased with my squishy work.
Deja Joy also has a hanging basket pattern that I used to fake some storage in our apartment, and it’s also grand.
Here’s a short video about the owl, just sort of walking you through how it looks and feels:
I make a lot of raglan sweaters. Most notably, I’ve made a lot of Captain Marvel sweaters. 5 of them, to be exact. And only once for myself. In order to help me stitch correctly, I’ve got to get measurements, and sometimes the people I need them from are not close enough to go do it myself.
So, I made a little chart that I send to clients. They measure themselves, send me the numbers, and boom. Jacket. I am three for three on the fit (the fourth person lived close enough I got the measurements myself.)
I first made this schematic years ago, and while it included Measurement #7, it did not include Measurement #8. Measurement #8 is important if you want to taper the sleeve on your sweater. It works like this:
Take Measurement #4 and halve it. This will give you the starting point on decreasing for the taper.
Take Measurement #5 and subtract Measurement #8. This will tell you how many inches you need to decrease around.
Check your gauge so you know your stitches per inch, then do a bit more math to figure out how many stitches per round you need to decrease down to Measurement #8 before you finish the sleeve.
I recommend doing decreases every third row for a nice, even taper that can give you a little wiggle room. I also do my decreases on either side of the seam on the back. That keeps the taper looking clean and also makes it easier to count out where the second set needs to go. If you are decreasing 6 stitches every round, you’ll decrease 3 times at the start of the round, and then 3 times at the end of the round, for example.
If you wanna hear me talk a bit about the overall process of making a raglan, here’s a video of the latest Captain Marvel sweater. It includes some extra stuff about the detailing as well:
We just hit day 28 of Coronavirus quarantine in our house. It’s…something. The good news is, there’s enough yarn around to keep me busy (for now), and I got the chance to finally complete the pattern for this Venom scarf! Because why not make yourself an angry friend with pockets while we all ride this out?
Sportweight yarn, D-hook, mostly written instructions with a few charts to help you out. And it’s FREE on Ravelry and Gumroad.
I am not responsible for tater tot grease that might end up in the pockets. You gotta teach Venom about sandwich baggies.
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